It is often a daunting task just to get started with an exercise program. Many programs recommend getting started with a partner.  Enter….your dog! Walking or running is an excellent way for all species to get back into shape. Among other benefits, a recent study suggested that there is a release of hormones in people and dogs – the “runner’s high” – that comes from intense activity. Our dogs are almost always ready for a brisk walk, so they provide us the perfect motivation to get up and out.

Too much all at once equals sore muscles and the need to rest once again so easing into a walking-running program is the way to start and stick with it. For example, try starting with just 20 minutes, alternating 60 seconds of jogging with 90 seconds of walking. Working out just 3 days a week, these intervals should continue to increase progressively until it is all running for 30 minutes (it doesn’t have to be at marathon speed – even fast walking alternated with normal pace will get your heart rate up).  (Check out Pooch to 5k at www.poochto5k.com to download free training programs that you can do with your dog).

When walking, hiking, biking, or running with your dog, be sure to use commonsense as our dogs can’t tell us when they are finding it too tough. You have to adapt your regime to your dog’s ability and a slow, progressive buildup, moderation and adequate recovery are all essential. Know when your dog has had too much. For example, he starts lagging, a change in the jingling sound of the collar tag (could indicate a change in the dog’s gait indicating pain or injury), panting harder than usual, or if your dog is still sluggish the next day he may be experiencing aches and pains – a dog should be recovered from exercise by the next day.

It is also important to exercise commonsense to ensure you do not trip over your dog, especially if running together. Before embarking on a training program that includes jogging or running, make sure your dog knows to walk on a loose lead and to stay at your side (or ahead on a 6′ lead). Spare yourself the skinned knees and fractured bones by teaching your dog proper leash manners.

Many people have found that once they get into a routine with their dog, whether it’s walking or running, their dog gets hooked and this in turn motivates the owners. The dog turns into a demanding coach. And to be worthy of your partner and coach, you will continue to get up and get going!

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r your old lab, give some thought to what the best toys actually would be for your particular dog.

The type of toy you purchase must reflect your dog’s age, size, and breeding. The pressure from a dog’s jaw can be close to 450 pounds per square inch (depending on the size and breed of dog), so the toy you give your German Shepherd will be very different from what you give your little Yorkie. If you happen to have a multiple dog household and the dogs vary in size and weight, you need to be even more careful so that your large dog doesn’t get a hold of a toy meant for your small dog, which the large dog could easily swallow.

For all dogs, stay away from old shoes and socks. These items smell like you and your dog can’t be expected to know the difference between an old shoe and your new pair. Additionally, veterinarians will tell you how often they must surgically remove personal items from dogs’ gastrointestinal tract. Don’t encourage your dog to chew on any of your personal items.

Along the same lines, check out your yard and play areas for things that your dog might turn into a chew toy. Dogs often have a tendency to chew on things such as rocks, sticks, and plants and these can easily be swallowed too.

Many dogs love a squeaky toy. If you have a tiny little dog, you may get away with a latex toy, but larger dogs can easily rip these apart and ingest the parts. Fleece type squeak toys are also popular with many dogs, but again, if your dog tends to rip them apart within minutes, these might not be the best choice as your dog could swallow the squeaker and/or stuffing. There are some toys that crinkle instead of squeak and others that are made without filling, so options exist depending on your dog’s preference and play style.

A good choice in a toy is an indestructible one. Pick one that is big enough that your dog can’t swallow it. Many of the hard rubber toys are hollow or have a space that can be stuffed with dog food or treats, turning the toy into a “food puzzle”. The toy should also be resistant to your dog’s personal chewing habits and play style. Safe toys must also be void of any parts that can break off and be swallowed.

Whatever toys your dog may have, be sure to remove them once they crack, fray, or otherwise start to come apart. Also, pay attention to your dog. Older dogs may have bad teeth or gum disease and may have trouble grasping toys or chewing hard bones may hurt.

If your dog does ingest a toy, see your veterinarian immediately. Signs that your dog might have swallowed a foreign object include vomiting, lack of appetite, and belly pain or discomfort, as well as retching, or excessive salivation, especially if lodged in the esophagus. The sooner you get your dog to the vet, the greater the likelihood of a favorable outcome. Don’t let your dog become a statistic.

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viorist as well. This is a cause of concern because there is also a lack of education to the general pet-owning public about the differences between a dog trainer and an animal behaviorist as well as what to look for when choosing to hire either a trainer or behaviorist. It is very much a “buyer beware” situation.

To help shed some light and provide some much needed education, let’s fist discuss the functional job of both the dog trainer and the animal behaviorist:

• A dog trainer handles basic obedience training. Come, sit, down, stay, etc.
• An animal behaviorist assesses and treats behavioral problems, but typically can also provide obedience training as well.

That sounds pretty straightforward, right? Right, except for the fact that many dog trainers call themselves behaviorists simply because they can (remember…no governing body). So the next area for clarification is the difference in the qualifications:

• A dog trainer may or may not have any formal education. A “trainer” may have taken an on-line training course then set off on his or her own or maybe just loves dogs, trained his or her own dog, and now sells dog training services. Others have studied with seasoned well-respected trainers and have worked with many dogs and attended many dog-training conferences to achieve a high level of skill. The level of expertise of dog trainers varies greatly.
• An animal behaviorist typically has received a graduate degree (Master’s or Ph.D.) and has completed a research-based thesis or dissertation in their field of specialization. This academic training provides some assurance that the individual: Is familiar with scientific literature documenting research on animal behavior of dogs (which can then be used to assess and treat behavior problems); and understands learning theory and when to implement various reinforcement schedules, desensitization, counter-conditioning, and other behavioral modification techniques.

What does all this mean to the pet owner looking for help with their dog? It means do your homework. First, understand what your needs are. Do you simply want to teach your dog some basic manners (obedience commands)? If so, a dog trainer is a great choice. But when choosing a trainer, know what questions to ask to weed out those who are truly qualified from those who “want-to-be”. Do not base your decision on who is offering the lowest price. Often inexperienced trainers will low-ball their prices to increase their volume and gain experience. You do not want them gaining that experience through trial and error on your dog. While dog training is not brain surgery, a bad trainer can cost you money in the long run if you subsequently must find someone else to fix the problems that either did not get solved or that surfaced as a result of bad training. Not to mention the possibly irreversible toll it might take on your poor dog. Here are some questions to ask:

1. What tools do you use? Avoid trainers who insist on one type of equipment or technique.
2. How do you get behavior from a dog? Answer is lure it, shape it or capture it. Avoid those who use leash pops, choke chains, or other physical prompts.
3. If a trainer uses the lure and reward method, ask them when the proper time is for adding the verbal command. Is it before your lure, as you lure, or after you lure? Correct answer is before you lure. This is basic training 101. If they don’t get it right, steer clear.
4. Do you offer a guarantee? Again, steer clear of anyone who does because they do not understand animal behavior. It’s just not possible to guarantee the behavior of another living being.
5. What motivators do you use? Avoid trainers who refuse to use food as a reward. Food is a powerful motivator. The best trainers will use food, toys, play, pets, and praise.
6. Observe the trainer in action. Are the people smiling and dogs having a good time? If the dogs’ tails are between their legs and people aren’t having fun, find someone else. If the trainer won’t let you observe, find someone else.
7. Ask what methodology is used. Look for a trainer that emphasizes rewarding good behavior rather than punishing unacceptable behaviors.
8. Ask for references from clients and other professionals such as veterinarians.

If you need help with behavioral problems, you will want to look for a behaviorist. As noted above, most will have some type of advanced degree or training in animal behavior. However, that is not to say that many experienced and qualified trainers who do not have an actual degree are not capable of behavior work. Because of the lack of certification and the relative newness of advanced degrees in animal behavior, many trainers took it upon themselves to study under other qualified animal behaviorists and although these trainers lack a formal degree, they nevertheless are very qualified to handle behavior problems. As in any career, it is unfair to state that a degree automatically makes one person more qualified than another, as experience counts for a whole heck of a lot. So again, if you seek help with a behavior problem, be sure that the person you select either has a formal Applied (or Associate Applied) Animal Behaviorist designation, or an advanced degree in animal behavior, and has proven experience (including success stories from clients and other professionals). You can use the questions above as well as a few additional ones to weed out your choice:

1. Ask if they use Operant or Classical Conditioning. Answer should be both. Then ask them to define each. (Classical is about associations between two things i.e. pairing; Operant is about the relationship between a behavior and its consequences).

2. Ask them when treating fears, what is their preferred method and why. Without going into a lesson on fears, most often the best method is through desensitization and counter-conditioning.

3. After explaining your behavior problem to them, do they ask you about your last veterinary exam? Often medical problems pose as behavioral ones and ruling out such a problem is critical to success.

4. If the individual suggests obedience training as your solution, move on. While obedience is typically a necessary component, it will not solve a behavior problem.

5. Ask how they would deal with a food-guarding problem – do they set the dog up and punish it hard for aggressing or do they gradually teach the dog to accept someone meddling around its food bowl by reinforcing good behavior? (This would be the right approach).

Someday perhaps, trainers and behaviorists alike will be governed by a formal body that prohibits the use of such titles without certain educational and applied requirements being met. Until that time, ask questions and do your homework. Buyer Beware.

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The answer for most dogs is……sleep.

Have you ever just sat and watched your dog? Sometimes when I just sit and wa

tch TV or read a book (or play the piano or garden, etc.), I look over at my dogs and feel remorseful that I am “entertaining” myself and they are…….sleeping. Sometimes it “guilts” me into getting up and taking them for a walk. But even then, an hour or so later, I am on to something else and they are……yep, sleeping. Ok, dogs do sleep much more than we do, but some mental and physical stimulation throughout the day is necessary for their total well-being.

While different breeds were bred for different jobs, such as finding prey, herding sheep, or retrieving game birds, all dogs were meant to live active lives. (Did you know that hunting or scavenging for food is almost a full-time job for wild dogs??) The good news is that you don’t have to take up hunting or purchase livestock in order to bring enrichment into your dog’s life. There are many practical ways to provide your dog with mental and physical exercise, thereby relieving boredom and excess energy.

Interactive Activities (Things to do together)

• Walk – good for your body and good for your dog’s. Take different routes and check out different places so your dog can experience new sights and smells. This is a good option for weekends when you don’t have to go to work.
• Chase – also good exercise for your dog (and for you if you have your dog chase you!). Dogs typically love to chase and some will chase until they are exhausted. You can tie a favorite toy to the end of a rope and attach the other end to a long stick (we use lunge whips purchased from a feed store). Drag the toy around, twirl it around in a big circle and snap it up into the air so your dog can chase after it.
• Fetch – not as good for your body, but still good for your dog’s so this a good option when you come home from work and it’s too late or you’re too tired for a walk.
• Tug-of-war – depending on the size of your dog, you may or may not get a workout too! Many dogs love this game as it allows them an outlet for their desire to grab and pull. There are important rules to this game however: your dog must only grab the toy when you tell him to and he must release the toy when you tell him to. Do not play this game if your dog ever exhibits aggression toward you over articles.
• Find it – it is always amazing to watch how powerful a dog’s sense of smell is. Start off easy – with your dog in a different room, hide a few pieces of kibble in one room in places that will be easy for your dog to find. You can even put a few in partial view. You want your dog to be successful. Get your dog and tell her to “find it” just before she enters the room. Then sit back and watch. You might have to point out a few of them at first, but once she has learned the “game”, you can hide treats in increasingly harder places and allow her to use her nose and wear herself out.
• Hide-and-seek – instead of finding treats, let your dog find you! A side benefit is that it can teach your dog to love coming when called! Vary the difficulty of your hiding places depending on the tenaciousness of your dog to actually continue to search for you.
• Sports – if you like to really get out for more than just a walk and want to spend time with other like-minded people and dogs, there are many different sports that you can do with your dog, such as agility, flyball, tracking, hearding, dancing (musical freestyle), go-to-ground (for the little terriers), lure coursing, weight pulling and carting. You can Google them for more information and contact information for each organization.
• Training is another way to bond with your dog, stimulate your dog’s mind and develop a communication link between you. Enroll in a reward-based training class (at Crossroads!)

Solo Activities (Things for your dog to do when alone)

• Chew – Dogs need to chew to keep their jaws strong and teeth clean. They also chew for fun, and to relieve boredom or anxiety. Give your dog plenty of appropriate things to chew on like nylabones, marrow bones, and bully sticks.
• Food Puzzles – if you stuff them creatively, these can keep your dog occupied for hours! A food puzzle is usually made of hard plastic or rubber with holes on the sides or ends, which allow you to put foodstuff inside but do not give your dog easy access to the food. (Can be purchased at any pet store). Dogs have to muzzle, paw, roll, shake or lick the toy to get the food out….lots of good problem-solving to help pass the time away. At first, make it easy for your dog to empty it (e.g. use small pieces of food that easily fall out) then as your dog gets better at it, use bigger pieces or freeze it after stuffing it.
• Scavenger Hunt – by nature dogs are scavengers, so why not let your dog hunt for his meals? You can scatter it around your yard or patio, hide small piles around the house, or even stuff a food puzzle toy with his meal and make him work for food.
• Daycare – dogs are social animals and most do better when they can engage with others, whether human or canine. When your hectic schedule makes it difficult to work in extra time with your dog, Doggy Daycare is a great way to provide your dog all the mental and physical stimulation she needs and give you peace of mind that your dog is happy and safe. Even if you do set aside time for your dog each day, going to doggy daycare at least once or twice a week allows your dog to experience canine companionship and develop (or maintain) proper canine social skills.

If you have any questions about this article or your dog in general, we are here to help. Call us at 714-821-6622. Wags, Woofs, and Behavior Self!

* From: Enriching your dog’s life, ASPCA. Retrieved 8-24-10 from http://www/aspcabehavior.org

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If you want to solve any behavior problem your dog might ha

ve, all you have to do is remember one simple rule: dogs repeat behaviors that pay off for the dog. That is, if the behavior is reinforced, the dog will continue to repeat the behavior. Let’s say, for example, that your dog greets you by jumping up on you and you respond by yelling and pushing him away. If, despite your response, your dog continues to jump on you, then your behavior (yelling and pushing, which are both forms of attention) is actually reinforcing your dog and he will continue to jump to greet you. To stop the unwanted behavior, remove the reinforcer, (i.e. your attention). Instead of yelling and pushing, stand perfectly still until your dog stops jumping and has four-on-the-floor, preferably in a sitting position, then pet him. Easy right? Wrong. Read on…..

Although the concept of removing whatever is reinforcing the behavior and rewarding a more appropriate behavior sounds easy, the actual application of it can be a bit more difficult in real life because it is hard to be consistent. For example, you tell yourself before you walk inside the house that you are going to ignore your dog and just wait it out until he sits. You have it all planned out in your head. You are going to stand as still and silent as a tree until he sits, no matter what. Then, you walk inside the house, your arms full of groceries and your dog, as usual, persistently jumps up on you. You stand still even as the groceries begin to weigh heavy in your arms. Soon your dog starts whining and jumping and getting even more carried away and, in one of his exuberant jumps up, snags his nails across your arm causing it to bleed. “OUCH” you yell as you walk over to the counter, put the bags down and perform first-aid treatment to your arm. Your dog is even more excited now that you have spoken and moved and he continues to jump on you. You turn to him and yell “NO” and push him off. “AH HA” your dog thinks….”all I have to do is persist to get your attention”. Now, your jumping problem becomes even worse and just waiting it out will become even harder to do.

Ok, so maybe this scenario is a bit extreme, but you get the idea; stuff happens. And when stuff happens, consistency goes out the window and so does your training. So, what do the training experts suggest you do? They simply tell you to start being consistent. Wait? What? We already know that in real-life consistency isn’t likely to happen. So are you supposed to just live with an out-of-control dog and hope he calms down with age? No, of course not. There are things you can do to improve your dog’s behavior. Training is one of those things, and yes, when you train, you need to be as consistent as possible. For the behaviors you do decide to train, your training plan needs to be set up in a manner that fits with your individual lifestyle so that you can be as consistent as possible. There is no one-size-fits-all when it comes to training. If you are having trouble being consistent in your training, it is a good idea to consult with a trainer who can help you develop a plan that will work for you. Any really good trainer will look at all the variables in your life and put together a personalized plan that you can stick to.

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• Those who are engaged in a subject matter by the instructor will enjoy the process and learn more than those who are bored to tears during instruction.
• Motiva
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  and learning) is enhanced when the information to be taught is organized in a way that is meaningful to the individual.

• Feedback and reinforcement increase motivation.
• Incentives motivate learning.

So, what do these facts have to do with training dogs? Read on……

As trainers, our goal is to keep dogs in their homes (and out of shelters) so we work with clients and their dogs on a daily basis to help bring harmony between the two species. Before working with the dog, we will ask the client what are the dog’s favorite things that he or she would want to work for? Usually the answer is food or toys and so we explain to the owner that we will use those things to reward the dog for good behavior and to motivate the dog to continue to work for us. It is at this point that some owners start to object and tell us that they do not want to use food (or toys). They will say things like, “I want my dog to do what it is asked because I expect it to”. Or, “I want the dog to do what it is asked out of a desire to please me”.

It is unfortunate that the importance of motivation is not recognized between species. If you think about it, everything we do is influenced by motivation. We do things because it brings intrinsic value, it avoids conflict or harm, it gets recognized (rewarded) by others, it provides for us or our families, it moves us closer to an end goal….the list goes on. So why should it be any different for our dogs? The answer is it shouldn’t be and it isn’t.

Our dogs do “love” us, but they are motivated by the consequences of their actions, not by their love for us. If the consequence of listening to a command brings them our squeals of praise and a generous petting, (assuming that the dogs finds this a pleasant thing), then the dog will continue to listen to our commands. If the consequence of not listening to our commands brings them a time out away from us, or a harsh reprimand, the dog will learn that not listening does not pay off. Think of it this way: Dogs will repeat behaviors that are followed by something they find pleasant; Dogs will not repeat behaviors that are followed by something they find unpleasant or that result in nothing happening at all. In other words, reward your dog for doing things that you like; ignore or reprimand those things that your dog does that you don’t like.

So let’s talk about rewards. What exactly is a reward? It is anything the individual (in this case, the dog) wants at that moment in time. It is something immediately meaningful to him or her. Yes, sometimes that might be a food reward; sometimes a toy, a petting, a walk, a drink of water, a word of praise, chasing a squirrel….the list could be quite lengthy. But one thing a reward is not: It is not a bribe. A bribe is offered before the requested behavior is performed. For example, you tell your young son that you will buy him an ice cream cone if he cleans his room. Likewise, you show your dog a yummy treat before you ask him to sit. Both of these are bribes because the individuals receiving the bribe know about it before they perform any behavior asked of them.

Now let’s look at it another way. You ask your young son to clean his room. To your surprise, he immediately goes to his room and tidies up. When he is done, you tell him that because he did what you asked so willingly, you are going to take him out for an ice cream cone. Likewise, you ask your dog to sit. After your dog sits, you walk over to the cupboard, grab a treat and give it to him. In both of these cases the same things (i.e. ice cream and a treat) have turned into rewards because they are produced after a behavior has been performed and without the individual having any knowledge that they were coming.

Ok, big deal, huh? Yes, it is a big deal. When you resort to bribes, you get stuck having to use them all the time to get a desired response. When you fail to produce the bribe, you fail to get a response. It makes sense: if the individual knows you aren’t going to pay out, there is no motivation for the individual respond. However, when you use rewards, the individual learns that when they behave as you expect them to behave (or do what you ask them to do) good things often happen, so they learn that it is in their best interest to do as requested so that something good will come their way. And, it usually does. It may not always be an ice cream cone or a treat, but it will be something desired such as your praise or a big thank you for your child, or praise or a pet for your dog, and these simple things then motivate future behavior.

People who do not want to use rewards when training their dog have typically fallen victim to using bribes or have been influenced by people who confuse the two or who fail to understand the importance of motivation in getting behavior. But hopefully now you have been enlightened and see the importance of using rewards to motivate learning and behavior. So back to the beginning:

• Those who are engaged in a subject matter by the instructor will enjoy the process and learn more than those who are bored to tears during instruction:
  • make the training fun for the dog and the dog will want to work for you.
• Motivation (and learning) is enhanced when the information to be taught is organized in a way that is meaningful to the individual:
  • by rewarding behavior you want, dog learns what behaviors payoff and which do not and will repeat only those that do.
• Feedback and reinforcement increase motivation:
  • dogs, and people, like good things to happen and are thusly motivated.
• Incentives motivate learning:
  • each reward provides incentive for future learning as a way to earn more rewards.

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u would never consider giving your dog, but may be around the house and problematic if your dog would help himself. A dog’s metabolism is quite different from ours, so just because we can eat it, doesn’t mean that the dog can too. If you find yourself wondering if you should give your dog a bite of something, error on the side of caution and don’t until you have a chance to look it up and get the facts.

If you know of others that we failed to mention, please feel free to add to the list.

• Alcoholic beverages- Just like it affects our liver and brain, so it does to a dog, but just a small quantity can do a lot of damage. Alcohol can cause vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, intoxication, coma, and death. Small dogs will be affected by very small amounts. It isn’t funny to watch a drunken dog – it’s jeopardizing its life.
• Avocado – The leaves, seeds, fruit, and bark contain persin, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea. Yes, there are some dogs food with avocado in them – ask your vet for advice if you are feeding one of them.
• Bones from fish, poultry, or other meat sources – Any bone from our kitchen, cooked or raw, can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system. Dogs love bones, but give them only sterilized, treated bones sold specifically for dogs, and even then, give under supervision.
• Cat food – Generally too high in protein and fats, which is probably why dogs seem to love it! Just because they are both our pets, it is not ok to share food between the species.
• Chocolate – Contains theobromine, or theophylline, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea and can be toxic to the heart and nervous systems.
• Caffeinated beverages – same as chocolate.
• Fat trimmings – Can cause pancreatitis. We don’t eat it and neither should our dogs.
• Fish (raw, canned or cooked) – If fed in high amounts or as the only protein, can result in a thiamin deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death. Certain kinds of fish such as salmon, trout, and sturgeon can contain a parasite causing a disease that if not treated, can be fatal within 2 weeks. The first signs of illness are vomiting, fever, and big lymph nodes. Thoroughly cooking the fish will kill the parasite.
• Grapes and raisins (and other currants) – Contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys and cause kidney failure. Just a small amount can make a dog ill. Repeated vomiting is an early sign. Within a day, the dog will become lethargic and depressed. Keep the fruit bowl out of your dog’s reach.
• Hops – It is not yet identified what specifically causes panting, increased heart rate, elevated temperature, seizures, and death, but keep your dog away from Hops.
• Human vitamin supplements containing iron – Can damage the lining of the digestive system and be toxic to the other organs including the liver and kidneys.
• Human medications – These are a common source of poisoning in dogs. While many human medications are prescribed for dogs, never give your dog any over-the-counter medicine unless told to do so by your vet. Ingredients such as acetaminophen or ibuprofen, found in many pain relievers and other over-the-counter medications, can be deadly for your dog.
• Kitchen Pantry – Many other items commonly found on kitchen shelves can harm your dog. For instance, baking powder and baking soda are both highly toxic. So are nutmeg and other spices.
• Macadamia nuts – Contain a toxin that can affect the digestive and nervous systems and muscle and it can be fatal. As few as 6 raw or roasted macadamia nuts can make a dog ill. Symptoms of poisoning include muscle tremors, weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters, vomiting, elevated body temperature, and rapid heart rate. Eating chocolate with the nuts will make symptoms worse, possibly leading to death.
• Marijuana – Can depress the nervous system, cause vomiting, and changes in the heart rate. Like alcohol, it is NOT funny to get a dog high.
• Milk and other dairy products – Dogs don’t digest dairy well. Some dogs may develop diarrhea if given large amounts of dairy products. Dairy products can also cause allergies and itching. A small piece of cheese may be ok as an occasional treat, but don’t overdo it.
• Moldy, spoiled food and garbage – Dogs may be scavengers but that doesn’t mean they should eat old food or dig in the trash. Can contain multiple toxins causing vomiting and diarrhea and can also affect other organs.
• Mushrooms – Can contain toxins that may affect multiple systems in the body, leading to shock and result in death.
• Onions and garlic – (raw, cooked, or powder) – Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Eating a large quantity once or eating smaller amounts regularly can cause poisoning. Symptoms of anemia include weakness, vomiting, little interest in food, and breathlessness. Garlic is less toxic than onions.
• Persimmons Seeds – can cause intestinal obstruction and enteritis.
• Pits from peaches and plums – -Can cause obstructions. Plus, peach and plum pits contain cyanide, which is poisonous to both humans and dogs. But humans don’t eat them; dogs do. Dispose of pits properly. If you have a fruit tree in your yard, pick up any fruit that drops from the tree.
• Raw eggs – Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin. This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella.
• Raw meat or fish – May contain bacteria such as Salmonella and E. coli, which can cause vomiting and diarrhea.
• Raw potatoes or potato plants – (cooked is ok, sans the butter, sour cream and chives!)
• Rhubarb leaves – Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.
• Salt -Too much salt can cause excessive thirst and urination and lead to sodium ion poisoning. Symptoms of too much salt include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated body temperature, and seizures. It may even cause death. No chips and salsa for your dog!
• Sugary foods – Pretty much the same for dogs as for us. Can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly diabetes.
• Table scraps (in large amounts) – not very nutritional so they should never be more than 10% of the diet. Omit meat fat (see above) and bones.
• Tobacco – The nicotine affects the digestive and nervous systems. Can cause rapid heart beat, collapse, coma, and death.
• Yeast dough – Can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.
• Xylitos (artificial sweetener) – Can cause very low blood sugar, which can result in vomiting, weakness and collapse. In high doses can cause liver failure. Candy, gum, toothpaste, baked goods, and some diet foods are sweetened with xylitol. Initial symptoms include vomiting, lethargy, and loss of coordination. Eventually, the dog may have seizures. Liver failure can occur within just a few days.

My Dog DID Eat THAT! What to do…..

Dogs will be dogs, so in the event that yours eats something he shouldn’t, call your vet, local emergency clinic or ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (888-426-4435) right away. Keep these numbers next to your phone so you aren’t hunting for them in case of an emergency.

For more information – there are some great web sites out there that go into much detail about the effects of the items mentioned above, including toxic doses, signs, action to take and treatment. Fosters and Smith as well as the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center are two good sources of free information.

Reference:

Fosters and Smith, 2011. Foods to avoid feeding your dog. http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=2+1659&aid=1030

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Dry vs canned

We’ve all been told th

at dry is better because it helps keep the dog’s teeth clean, right? Well, many pet nutritionists suggest that canned food may be better because it contains fewer preservatives, less grain (usually), and more moisture. The overall consensus seems to be that canned foods are best used as a supplement to a good-quality dry food.

Supermarket brands vs. Premium brands

Yes, supermarket brands are usually cheaper, but you are also paying for a lot more fillers and lower quality meat products. It is agreed by Pet-nutrition experts that food made from top-grade ingredients including meat, whole grains, and vegetables, will provide a healthier coat, less digestive problems, and firmer (and less plentiful) stools because they are absorbing more nutrients and consuming fewer cups.

Life Stages Food (Puppy, large adult, Senior)

The only true designations are puppy and adult (according to the Association of American Feed Control Officials). Products labeled ‘senior’ or by breed (or size) only mean that they meet the requirements for regular adult food. There is no regulation for any other term used on dog food packaging. So, don’t waste money buying a different food for every different breed in your household!!

Raw Food

Raw food is the most natural dog food because it is the closest thing to what an animal would eat in the wild; it doesn’t matter if it is prepackaged, frozen raw foods, or homemade food. This is a good option, but both an expensive and time-consuming one and one which if you choose to do, you need to make sure you are providing all the necessary nutrients. It does require some research and recipes!

Grain-Free

This simply means that grains have been replaced with other carbohydrate sources.

Also, nutritionists recommend changing the food every two to three months (unless your dog has allergies) and to alternate between dry and canned food. Wait….What?? Read that sentence again. Dog food companies will have you believing differently of course because they want brand loyalty. Think about it, if you feed a dog the same thing day after day, changing food will likely cause gastro upsets. BUT, if you change the food regularly (allergies and medical conditions taken into consideration of course), the dog’s system will be use to different foods and not upset by change. Besides, dogs are scavengers. They like variety. How boring to eat the same kibble day in and day out. This is just opinion of course, but our preference is to change it up for our own personal dogs and to add things like carrots, green beans, or a few apple pieces, (etc.) to the bowl.

So, there it is, all that we learned. Hope it has helped guide you in your selection of foods for your own best friend. We encourage you to write down notes for yourself to take along when you shop for food and compare labels. Good luck!

The post Great Mysteries of Dog Food, Part 3 appeared first on Crossroads Pet Resort.

Starting w

ith protein –

High levels of protein are recommended for dogs with high activity levels and/or high stress levels. Heavy dogs may loose more weight on a high protein, low carb diet than a diet with more carbs but less calories. For dogs with kidney disease, a high quality, low protein diet is suggested. Typically, a good quality food for the average adult dog is 21-24%. But it is the quality of the protein that is important here. (see previous post). When comparing protein percentages between canned food and dry food, you must first convert both to what is called Dry Matter. To do this, take 100% and subtract the water percent listed on the product then divide the protein percent by this amount and multiply by 100. (Example: In the guaranteed analysis section on a can of dog food, water content is 80%, protein is 10%. Take 100% minus 80% leaves 20% of dry matter. Divide the 10% protein by the 20% dry matter, and multiply by 100 and you get 50%. This is the dry matter protein. Doing this to both dry and canned yields a protein amount that you can use to compare.

Fat –

For dogs that live in very cold environments, or hard-working dogs, chronically thin dogs, and dogs with cancer, a higher fat diet is appropriate. The typical amount of fat in a good quality adult dog food is 15-19%.

Carbohydrates –

Increases and decreases in opposite direction of protein. The only thing to remember is that the higher the carbs, the more likely it can cause fluctuations in blood sugar and insulin resistance – obviously not appropriate for diabetic dogs or dogs prone to diabetes or dogs with cancer (who need high fat and low to no carbohydrates). Dogs do not really require high carbs as an energy source. In small amounts, they are fine, but watch out for foods that favor carbs over protein and fat. Unfortunately, the carbohydrate content is never listed on a dog food label. But you can do some simple math: The protein, fat, ash, water and carbs must equal 100% of pre-cooking weight. So, take 100% and subtract the protein, fat, ash, and water – the rest is carbs! (If ash amount isn’t listed, you can estimate between 5% and 8% ash).

Calcium and Phosphorus –

Usually fluctuates in the same direction as protein levels. Higher levels can affect the digestibility of a food, zinc absorption and can cause bone abnormalities in puppies especially large-breed puppies. These minerals should be kept as low as possible for puppies and dogs with kidney disease.

Ash –

This is what is left over after the food is burned in an incinerator and is mostly potassium and phosphorus along with calcium, iron, magnesium, sodium, and zinc. The higher the ash level, the higher the mineral content (remember phosphorus is bad for dogs with kidney disease).

Calories –

Avoid high calorie diets for large and/or giant breed puppies. Grain free diets can be high in calories. The protein has to be carefully controlled if feeding a high calorie diet to any dog.

For a complete discussion on pet food labels go to:

http://www.fda.gov/animalveterinary/resourcesforyou/ucm047113.htm

Next time, we will discuss the pros and cons of the different types of dog food available.

The post The Great Mysteries of Dog Food, Part 2 appeared first on Crossroads Pet Resort.

At Crossroads, we p

rovide food as part of our boarding services. We naturally want to provide the best food at the best cost. Recognizing that no single food will suit every single dog, but also recognizing that we provide boarding services to dogs of all ages, size, and breed, we needed to select a food that would best suit an overall general population. So, to educate ourselves, we set out on a dog food search. We would like to pass along what we learned so you can use this information to make the right choice for your dog. In first of a three part series, we look at what should and what should not be in your pet’s food.

What’s a Dog to Eat?

The best food will provide meat (i.e. beef, turkey, chicken, lamb, fish) as the top ingredient(s) followed by a carbohydrate such as potatoes or rice.

Many dog foods use the term “byproduct”. This refers to animal parts that are not used for human consumption and can include bones, organs, blood, intestines, fatty tissue and in small cases when listed as simply “meat byproducts” can include euthanized dogs, cats, zoo animals, road kill and the like. Lesson here is if you choose a food with byproducts, make sure it shows the specific origin such as chicken byproduct, or lamb byproduct, but best to avoid byproducts altogether.

With respect to carbohydrates, quality also matters. Dogs can absorb nutrients from white rice, but flour, wheat, corn and glutens provide little or no nutritional value. Also, avoid foods with non-specific grain source or foods with the same grain ingredient listed 2 or more times in the first five ingredients listed.

The best foods will also include fruits and veggies (other than corn), barley, flax-seed oil, glucosamine and chondroitin. Tocopherols and ascorbic acid are also ok.

Avoid products that use artificial preservatives like BHA, BHT, and ethoxyquin. Unfortunately, ethoxyquin is used to preserve ingredients such as fishmeals before they actually reach the dog food maker and so is not included on the ingredients list. You can call the manufacturer and ask. Natural preservatives are safer and include vitamin C, vitamin E, and Naturox.

Also avoid foods with artificial colorants, citric acid, brewers rice, corn, animal fat (other than fish oil), food in which lamb is the only protein (unless your dog is allergic to other sources), wheat, and salt.

So….confused? It can be a bit daunting and tough to remember. We suggest you write down the things to look for, and those to watch out for, in a dog food and take it along next time you go shopping for food.

Next week, we will look at protein, carbs and other ingredients that should be in a dog food and in what amounts…….you’ll want to include these on your list too!

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